Showing posts with label artisan jewelry. Show all posts
Showing posts with label artisan jewelry. Show all posts

Monday, January 16, 2017

The Making of Brass Wrist Cuffs

Today I made two cuffs for a customer so I wanted to show you the process. 
I first start out with sheet brass and cut the shapes out.

Then I hand finish all of the edges and round the corners using files and increasing grits of sand paper, so that there are no sharp edges.

I always stamp my maker's mark on all of my metal jewelry.

Nest I shape the metal blanks of an oval bracelet mandrel. I like oval mandrels because our wrists are not round.

Here are the two blanks after the first stage of forming. The cuff on the mandrel has a chevron shape and the one on the workbench is a tall 3 inch cuff.

This is a picture of the tall cuff getting a hammered finish. I am using a Fretz hammer :)

Here is a picture of the finished tall cuff. I have turned up the edges to go away from the arm and to give it a better shape. 

And here is what the cuff looks like on the inside. It has been hand finished and hand polished and is ready for shipping. These two cuffs are for a small wrist, but I can make all sizes, all the way up to extra large. Each one is made for you.


Thursday, August 6, 2015

German Silver an Affordable Jewelry Alternative

When the price of silver went through the roof, several years ago, many of us, metal smiths, began using German silver, or nickel silver as a more affordable substitute for sterling silver.

German silver (or nickel silver)  has many wonderful qualities but it actually contains NO silver at all. It is actually an alloy made, primarily of  60% copper, 20% nickel and 20% zinc. Nickel silver has existed for over 2000 years in China where it was first known and used. 

The Germans began producing this metal from 1750 on, hence the name. In the 19th century, the American Plains Indians began to acquire nickel silver and began using it in belt buckles, earrings, pendants, and other jewelry. Nickel silver can be hammered, folded, soldered and formed just like silver.

I love making cuffs and bangle. Here are some examples of hammered cuffs, bangles and earrings that I made.




Tall nickel silver cuff




Hammered Bangle Set of 7


Long nickel silver dangle earrings


Wide nickel silver thumb ring


German silver is also very hard and can take a high polish. This metal is a little more difficult to work with than copper or brass so it needs to be annealed more frequently to soften it up.

In the Middle East, some of the most beautiful Bedouin jewelry are made using nickel silver, and even some furniture was made from this beautiful and versatile  Here are a couple of examples.





Today, besides being used in jewelry, many musical instruments including french horns, trumpets and flutes are made from 100% nickel silver.

I do love working in sterling silver and gold but more of my customers can wear and enjoy my designs when they are made from German silver.